The Himalayan Rally continued
| A road trip of
roughly 2800km one way in a 35 year
old truck is a challenge, doing it through India and over the
highest
motorable passes in the world puts some icing on the cake for the driver and aiming out for river
descents and a possible first descent makes it all
worthwhile for the kayakers too. |  |
The Himalayan Rally had the
right ingredients to
continue.
| Night driving in India is a great way to
avoid those crazy traffic jams but, unfortunately the traffic doesn`t always avoid you and one truck driver
decided to get up close with our truck. While
moving fast at around 0100 a.m., I saw the headlights in the
distance when they started to swerve onto my lane. Hitting the breaks and trying to pull the truck
off the
road didn`t help, as the other driver was determined to hit our truck, even while he was deep a sleep. Luckily the
build of our blue monster was solid
enough to pretty much bounce and wreck the other truck without taking
too much damage. Scratches and dents were done anyway and after discussing for
hours with the police and the
driver, I finally got 200$ to be able to fix the truck back into shape some kind of shape. |  |
Staying in
Manali and preparing for the climb through the Himalayas
was pleasant with fresh air filling
our dusted out lungs from the long drive through the hot plains of
India.
The switchback approach up to the Rothang pass
matches any European Standard and it definitely reminds you of the high passes in
Switzerland.
Once past
Keylong the scenery changes from trees to bushes, from green to arid and
from Hindu to Buddhism. We are about to approach the Tibetan Plateau and
broke through and over the Greater
Himalayan Range.
The road into Ladakh has plenty of
switchbacks and a steady climb. We were passing
heights of 4300m, 5080m and then finally Tang Lang La with
5280m the second highest pass in the world.
The truck
was doing decent, even while we all could feel the loss of power due to the high altitude and the low oxygen level
in
the air. From TangLang La it`s a quick rush down to the town of Leh to get some apple pies, Juleys
(welcome in Ladakh), and a shower to dust off. Now it
was time to get some kayaking in after a week on
bouncy roads. First thing we did was to set out for some warm up on the well known Indus river which we
kayaked from as high up as Tsomoriri Lake (~5000m) and down all the way to a place called Kalshi. Mostly grade III with a deadly weir in
between (It killed an unfortunate kayaker this August) and some big volume grade IV upstream
and further
downstream. Maybe also the one or other V? |  |
 Landslides and washed away bridges as well as
flooded rivers challenged us on and off
the road or in and out of the rivers. All our plans had to be adjusted and the planed first descent of the
Shyok River got halted after the road up and
down the river was blocked with
landslides.
| | We roughly kayaked 5kms of easy
whitewater on this big and interesting river. On the drive in we instead got along
the
Durbuk River which looked promising and kayaked roughly
12kms on this very
beautiful IV/V creek. Guessing this should`ve been a first descent. |  |
| The
weather goods still weren`t any pleased with Ladakh and
the weather continued to be bad with snow in the high passes and rain on the bottom. It was time
to head out
for some nice rivers in Nepal to get some kayaking in instead of
waiting for Sun. The drive
went uneventful in comparison to the drive in, but we might have just gotten
hardened to the crazy Indian traffic, the landslides, the washed out bridges, the
cows, dogs, bicycles,
rikshaws, the masses of people, the fixing of the truck on the roadside with crowds of people staring, the custom
and traffic police
hassles, the accidents and so many other baffling road happenings. As usual,
India is always an
experience and tops any other destination
in craziness, cultural diversity and with its highest motor able roads in the world also with some engineering
feats. | | |  |
I believe that the blue monster and I will be
back for
some more of it but, for now it is off into clean and green
Nepal to rejuvenate both of us from all the
happenings on
the way and to finally get some whitewater time.